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  N° 325
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17/05/2013  
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Wine experts’ ratings – a load of twaddle?
LAJOURNEEVINICOLE.COM | 26/10/2012 | EDITION N°325

Research published by Penn State university in the American Journal of Enology and Viticulture questions the relevancy of wine experts’ ratings and recommendations on the basis that their palates differ widely from those of the vast majority of consumers. 

 

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In the same way that wines differ hugely depending on a number of variables, an international team of researchers has highlighted the significant differences between a wine expert’s palate and that of the ordinary wine drinker. A wine expert’s acute sense of taste may therefore mean that his or her ratings and recommendations may be totally irrelevant to wine consumers who were not born with the ability to discern small differences in a broad range of tastes.  “What we found is that the fundamental taste ability of an expert is different,” said John Hayes, assistant professor, food science, and director of Penn State’s sensory evaluation center. “And, if an expert’s ability to taste is different from the rest of us, should we be listening to their recommendations?” The researchers used an odourless chemical – propylthiouracil – to measure people’s reaction to bitter tastes. People with acute tasting ability will find the chemical extremely bitter, while people with normal tasting abilities say it has a slightly bitter taste, or is tasteless. The researchers said that wine experts were significantly more likely to find the chemical bitterer than non-experts. “Just like people can be colour blind, they can also be taste blind,” said Hayes who worked with scientists from Brock University in Ontario, Canada. 

Amongst other findings, the researchers also ascertained that people who were more adventurous in trying new foods were also more willing to drink new types of wines and alcoholic beverages, but this food adventurousness did not necessarily predict wine expertise. Conversely, while wine experts were more likely to try new wines and alcoholic beverages, they were not more likely to try new foods.

Although wine scores and recommendations may flatter the wine buff’s ego, the chances are that his or her biological make-up may be a barrier to a true understanding of extremely specific wine descriptors used by experts. In fact, Hayes goes as far as to suggest that experts may be drawn to the wine industry because of their enhanced ability to taste wines. Obviously learning and experience play a significant part in a wine taster’s expertise, but the research seems to suggest that the capacity to discern small differences in wine may well be innate. “It’s not just learning,” said Hayes. “Experts also appear to differ at a biological level.

 

 
 
 
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Contents issue n°325
Europe welcomes Brazil’s decision to drop safeguard enquiry on imported wines
Wine experts’ ratings – a load of twaddle?
Outstanding potential for 2012 vintage, says Rhone Valley marketing board
Bernard Magrez finally secures Sauternes purchase
Hubert de Bouard commissioned by Château de Berne
Bonfils links up with Karl O’Hanlon to develop wine tourism
Australian Vintage targets younger audience with Vinni
Skyscanner’s 2012 airline wine awards announced
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